There isn’t a tourist-ridden market in sight.
With the return of cooler temperatures, a lazy stroll through Old Dubai is practically mandatory. Sure, areas like JBR, JLT and Palm Jumeirah perpetually boast something new to be discovered, but sometimes, the charm of the city’s oldest and most chaotic neighbourhoods feels like comfort food for the soul. Sick of all those visits to Gold Souk and Spice Souk with out-of-towners in tow? Fret not because, here, DSCVR guides you on a route through Old Dubai that’s laced with undiscovered finds and entails a bit of everything – local cuisine, historical figures, religious landmarks, unbeatable sunset views, and a stay at what is arguably the city’s most unique hotel. Comfortable shoes at the ready.
Deira
Parking woes are an unwanted (but guaranteed) aspect of exploring the city’s historic centre, so leave your car at home, get on the metro, and hop off at the Al Ras station – this is where your adventure begins. From here, you’ll walk about eight minutes to Al Bait Al Qadeem (which translates to ‘Old House’), where a hearty brunch of Emirati and Middle Eastern classics (think: reqaq, harees and belaleet with eggs) awaits in a building constructed back in 1909. The portion size of the luqaimat – priced at only AED 10 – is just the proverbial cherry on top.
View this post on Instagram
Fuelled and caffeinated, you can now make your way to Al Ahmadiya School and Heritage House. Incidentally, both heritage venues are located next to each other and mere steps away from Al Bait Al Qadeem. The former was the very first school in the city, attracting the region’s finest scientists and scholars and operating from 1912 to 1958. It now functions as a museum, with each room offering visitors a glimpse into the past through videos and dioramas. The latter, meanwhile, was built in 1890 and showcases how coral, gypsum, verandas, wind towers and a central courtyard once came together to create the residential properties of influential families. Entry to both is free.
View this post on Instagram
Further afield – but only a three-minute walk away – is Museum of the Poet Al Oqaili, the former home of poet Mubarak bin Hamad bin Mubarak Al Manea Al Oqaili, who moved from Saudi Arabia and lived in Dubai between 1875 and 1954. Not only is the site worth a visit to explore architecture from the 1920s, but it’s also steeped in history when it comes to literature. Al Oqaili is considered one of the country’s most famous poets and prominent luminaries for his contributions to Nabataean poetry. A word to the wise: linger a little as the artistic ornaments, personal tools and words of wisdom that are dotted around elevate the house’s aesthetic appeal and are worth a closer look. Entry is free.
View this post on Instagram
By now, it’s time to take an AED 1 trip across Dubai Creek, going from Deira to Bur Dubai, where the rest of our recommended lesser known spots reside. Simply walk over to the Deira Old Souk Abra Station and hop aboard a traditional abra for a journey reminiscent of yesteryear.
Bur Dubai
Mazmi Café sits right at the edge of Dubai Creek on the Bur Dubai side, translating to the definitive spot for sunset, an order of signature saffron ice cream and a hefty dose of people-watching. And keeping you company? A seven-ton Scotch crane dating back to 1938. It was once used to offload goods from cargo dhows during the 1950s and, today, makes for a larger-than-life reminder of the city’s roots as a trading hub.
View this post on Instagram
With Dubai Museum, Textile Souk and Bur Dubai Grand Mosque within walking distance, this vicinity serves up a truly honest snapshot of the city. However, it’s Shiva Temple that many residents have yet to discover. A small temple catering to the city’s sizable Hindu community, it was given the green light in 1958 by Sheikh Rashid bin Saeed al Maktoum – read: religious tolerance isn’t a passing trend in Dubai.
These days, the always-busy complex houses two temples devoted to the Hindu gods Shiva and Krishna. Devotees and curious visitors are equally welcome – just be sure to leave your footwear outside and follow basic temple etiquette if you’re looking to soak up some of Dubai’s cultural diversity. While you’re there, also meander around the area’s many flower shops that cater to worshippers through a wide and colourful array of statues, jasmine garlands, banana leaves and other ceremonial objects (Perumal Flowers is especially popular). Your Instagram feed will thank you.
View this post on Instagram
Not quite ready to head back to reality? Now is when you check into the nearby Mazmi Casa, an intimate B&B that is owned by the founders of Mazmi Café and features a grand total of only three rooms. Oh, and its backstory is just as charming as the couple behind it – Mazmi is owned by an Italian woman named Ilaria and her Emirati husband Mohamed Al Mazmi, and their collective backgrounds are palpable in everything from the wooden chests and scattering of cacti to the coffee table books and black-and-white photographs depicting fishing scenes. Our pick of the individually themed rooms? ‘Samaa’, owing to its bathtub located inside an original wind tower.
Sweet dreams.
